Not sure about Toronto*, but we have the likes of something similar in our cabin and homes in the Sierra Nevada toward Tahoe but which I clarified above: Pete reminds me of an interesting point that i thank him for, in the tundra of Saskatoon. I only comment in that 48"-worth of a lot of bags in a wheel barrow are really labor intensive and require more examination of the consistency of the mix. Presumably your slope appearing in the left pic explains 48" deep, but I don't take issue with that in itself. The 2x8 framing isn't required for the joists per se, but is required by local bylaw on the outside (rim) joists for attachment of 4x4 guardrail posts.Thank you for the joist clarification. 6" would seem to be more than enough particularly is there are three joists across 48".Īctually, your example of 'oscillating' describes what I did to a tee (including use of a 1" stick). The uniform voids across the full pour in the pic show it to be too dry.Īlthough unrelated to the mix, 8" framing for a 4' deck seems overkill. No mention is made of why they go as deep as 48" as to terrain, slope (?) or general soil condition - are they drilled in filled land for example? The left pic seems to show a steep slope. What should have been done is to emulate the mechanical vibration by aggressively "oscillating" up and down in a 3" or 4" stroke something as simple as a long 1" square stick in the mix, starting at the bottom as you gradually increase the pour, moving it upward with each ~4" added. Thanks againNone of these notes defines your interpretation of "tamping." If you mean tapping/pounding (not "heavier tamping") on the surface that is an unworkable error. Think I will take billh's and Egon's advice and parge it for appearances! It's a very small deck at 4'x4' (16 sq ft), and the underside of my 2'x8' framing is 24" above ground. Was perhaps too cautious about making it too wet! As some have suggested, I think my mix might have been on the dry side, and probably needed heavier tamping. Thanks everyone for your comments, I do appreciate it. Unless there are voids you have that are so deep that water can nest in crevices and subsequently freeze and cause the concrete to start breaking up, which is very unlikely they are that bad, I would just leave them alone. Parging it would mostly make them look prettier. Not sure, but it does say not to vibrate. Maybe it is because it could cause the form to fail via maybe delaminating the cardboard of the Sonotube while still wet or that it could cause the form to shift place. Go figure eh! Not sure why they have that warning. I used my 18V Makita concrete vibrator for piers to avoid the honey comb look even though on the side of the Sonotube, it actually says 'Do not vibrate'. As long as you don't have too dry a mix when pouring or a cold joint that could be an issue for frost heave reasons, don't bother wasting your money on rebar. He said it's all about compression below grade. I asked a planning engineer many years ago at my town hall about rebar in pier footings and he said unless the pier rises some feet above grade it is not required and it does nothing. Economical to just replace the pile.Ī few, very few of concrete pile design concepts.įD0504BB-5708-4FDF-BEDD-5BD9FE26C1DB.jpegĪ piece of rebar down the center of a concrete pile is at the point of zero polar movement and does nothing for strength. Taking a core and analyzing it would be one way to go. Digging down and looking will tell you little about the strength. Soil conditions have to be evaluated for end bearing or friction piles. Tamping could be used for non slump pours but those will not be common in sona tube pours. There are very precise guidelines for vibration. The post retainer also requires proper design involving holding power in. Spacing must also be in accordance to aggregate size as well as mandated side clearance. Size of rebar and number of rebar are dependant on design requirements. Quikrete is not a great product for a finished look, it has large stones in it.Įngineered piles usually have a rebar cage installed. I would dig down around the worst looking ones and make sure they are solid throughout. I vibrate my footings and use a piece of rebar in the middle of every sonotube. Is it a ground level deck or 2nd story deck?ĭid the building inspector approve the footings?ĭid you vibrate the footings when you were pouring them? At the risk of sounding harsh you really shouldn't be taking the opinion of guys on the internet on potential structural issues.
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